![]() ![]() But I think after I got the first lamination in place I let too much time go by and the second one dried too straight. The towels and boiling water technique seemed to work, relaxing the wood and allowing both laminations to bend at the stem. I'm using Yellow Alaskan Cedar for the longitudinals. Sheers, in these plans, are the longitudinal pieces that form the upper edge of the hull. Sheer is usually defined as the curvature of the deck front to back. Not sure if they land at the right place on the stem but the notches in the plans seem to encourage the wood to land where it lands. The port chine didn't land on the stem with the right twist so I had to add a little beveled shim to make a flat landing place. There are designated pieces of wood that serve this purpose. The slightly different shape makes all the difference.Ĭhines are the lines that divide the "sides" of the boat from the "bottom". I finally saw the light and got a Fearson (Reed Prince) screwdriver and ordered the Fearson bits from Glen-L. I struggled for a while with the Fearson screw heads, trying to use Phillips drivers. For screwing into the hard wood I had to predrill giant holes and wax the screws. Per instructions, I had ordered bronze screws. For the frames I used Sipo, real nice hard wood, not quite as expensive as Honduran mahogany, but looking about the same. Going to guess that brown band Merc is early 80's or so.Frames are pieces that run the width of the boat and to which longitudinal pieces are attached. I bought an OMC engine like the V in 1972 new. The other OMC, smaller one is loop charged which is more efficient. I think that engine is Direct Charged which is an efficiency measure over cross flow like the one of the OMC engines.the 1972 V engine.can't tell the HP. Both mean more miles per gallon for your tow vehicle and boat. Other thing about alum boats is that they are easy to tow and to push (on the water). Fixing marine equipment can get expensive. You will do a lot better spending extra money up front and purchasing a well cared for boat which will ultimately cause you fewer problems than the converse. The price you pay for the boat is relative. Again, any water marks on it would be cause for investigation/concern. You are dealing with Fir plywood which has a grain and filler wood so there will be some penetration, but not much if you get in the filler between the grain which will be hard. Just take a pocket knife and probe, looking for soft spots. Other thing is you can get to the transom wood at the sides and front. Get a second person to stand to the side so that they can look across the transom from side to side with their eyes a few inches above it.Ĭlimb on the engine putting your feet on the anti-vent plate and hold onto the cowl. Any sign of a water mark inside is a clue that the deck may be soft in that area. The floor check is just to walk around and feel for soft spots. If the deck is covered in vinyl and the boat was stored inside out of the weather, which it appears to have been, then I wouldn't sweat it nor the transom. One is the deck (floor) the other the transom. There are two places you'll find wood in that boat. Alum boats ride a little rougher than glass due to being lite and usually a shallower V like the Starcraft, but having had one, and reflecting on the number of years that hull was in production, and the thousands of them that ventured out on the Great Lakes and other large bodies of water they survived the test of time. That hull and the Merc engine are both time tested and survived the test (of quality products). ![]() The trailer and running gear are painted nicely. ![]() Third, the hull is not scratched up and the paint looks to be in good condition. A second indication is that the lower unit on the engine is not dinged up, nor is the prop. That is a good looking rig which to me reflects care. If it meets your needs, I'd take the first picture hands down. Marine/ Force ) but I know some 'Glass ones did thru a deal with Chrysler marine I don't know if any tin Starcrafts came with Chrysler ( pre US. Parts do exist for Forces and they are pretty simple engines. Anything after 1980 or so is pretty much safe, even Force outboards to a point. The Mercs are fine units, but they are mostly NLA so finding parts can be costly. Avoid electric shift and hydro electric shift models ( switches select the gear, not a cable ). As an old Merc owner, I will say to look for Evinrudes if your looking at engines made before 1979 or so. You should be able to pick up a Starcraft Super Sport, Mariner or even a Holiday in good shape for your $3-5k. Also the option of Bluefin and Spectrum but reportedly, they are not the best build quality and used quite a bit of wood below deck. Older Starcraft and Sea Nymph is basically your price range, and of course Lunds too. Not sure on the Alumaweld but with a $5k budget, it won't buy one anyway. Most transoms are wooden, even in aluminum boats. ![]()
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